After sleeping for several hours--6am-11am--we awoke to a fantastic meal from Ephi. This would be our first taste of the incredible food served in Greece.
We decided to try and walk to Monastiraki, about 3 miles away, for the evening. Monastiraki is very close to the Acropolis and Plaka, which basically form the heart of Athens. There are historical monuments, flea markets, and delicious Greek restaurants.
However, the riots in Athens started a few days before we arrived. As we walked, Ephi pointed out all the shops that were closed and afraid to stay open during the chaos. Many places in the neighborhoods we crossed seemed so empty. Then, we came to the outskirts of Monastiraki, where restaurants lining the street were open and vibrant. We couldn't help but notice, though, that most people were walking back towards us--not Monastiraki. Ephi asked a group of young teenage girls what was going on, and they informed her that the riots were spreading. We learned the following:
The rioters did come to our area as we were leaving, but it wasn't as scary of an image as I had conjured up. About 100 men and women arrived suddenly on their motorcyles. They offered us a pamphlet on what they were protesting (the government's handling of the financial turmoil towards bankruptcy, including the resulting severe taxation and union restrictions for government workers). I took the pamphlet, and we headed home.
On our way, we had a spectacular view of the Acropolis (the huge flat-topped rock where the Parthenon is perched), all lit up at night. And of course, we indulged in a delicious, huge-portioned, home cooked, Greek dinner. :)
We decided to try and walk to Monastiraki, about 3 miles away, for the evening. Monastiraki is very close to the Acropolis and Plaka, which basically form the heart of Athens. There are historical monuments, flea markets, and delicious Greek restaurants.
However, the riots in Athens started a few days before we arrived. As we walked, Ephi pointed out all the shops that were closed and afraid to stay open during the chaos. Many places in the neighborhoods we crossed seemed so empty. Then, we came to the outskirts of Monastiraki, where restaurants lining the street were open and vibrant. We couldn't help but notice, though, that most people were walking back towards us--not Monastiraki. Ephi asked a group of young teenage girls what was going on, and they informed her that the riots were spreading. We learned the following:
- Young people are way friendlier to older people in Greece than in the US. Ephi is 63. If she were to try and talk to teenagers here, they may answer her, and would then get away as quickly as possible. These girls not only answered her question, but also stayed to chat with her. We saw this example on different occasions after this, and we were impressed by the respect and courtesy shown by young people.
- A riot was expected any moment in the exact area we were standing. They were coming to apparently burn down a nearby restaurant.
The rioters did come to our area as we were leaving, but it wasn't as scary of an image as I had conjured up. About 100 men and women arrived suddenly on their motorcyles. They offered us a pamphlet on what they were protesting (the government's handling of the financial turmoil towards bankruptcy, including the resulting severe taxation and union restrictions for government workers). I took the pamphlet, and we headed home.
On our way, we had a spectacular view of the Acropolis (the huge flat-topped rock where the Parthenon is perched), all lit up at night. And of course, we indulged in a delicious, huge-portioned, home cooked, Greek dinner. :)
The next day, public transportation in Athens (bus, train, metro, taxis, etc) was still not running because of the riots. We mainly relaxed and walked around safe, open parts of the city. Footage on TV showed the riots based in Syntagma Square--outside Greece's Parliament building. Although initially peaceful, the riots had turned more violent with fire bombs, rocks thrown, and resulting tear gas. A few protesters died during the riots, along with several hundred wounded: http://www.usatoday.com/news/world/story/2011-10-20/greece-protest-death/50840588/1
At this point, we also decided to stay in Athens all 6 days instead of going to Santorini. Ferry schedules were erratic, and we wanted to save money and just enjoy all the many things Athens offered. More yummy food ensued.
On day 3, public transportation started running on a limited basis. We finally got to Monastiraki, where we enjoyed our first gyro of the trip. Greek restaurants in the US just can't compare to the quality of food in Greece. The ingredients are so fresh, and the herbs just jump out at you. Did I mention the food was fantastic? :)
It was easy to forget, as we were enjoying our food with hundreds of other people around, that fire bombs were being thrown less than a mile away. You would never know it. People were laughing and relaxing, drinking wine and casually eating. Then, people started coming through the center with white tear gas marks on their faces, and some still wearing masks. It wasn't clear who had been protesting and who had just been observing. Everyone blended together, looking frustrated and sad.
After getting up from the table, we noticed that a nearby ATM machine had been completely ripped out. Glass was fractured and money had clearly been stolen. There was also a garbage strike, too, so trash had been piling up in dumpsters. Some garbage cans had been kicked over and burned, which at least helped kill the pungent stink.
Our curiosity to see the madness in action led us to Syntagma--riot central--just a short walk away. We had heard things were simmering, so we thought it would be a good time to check it out. We inched closer, and everyone around us looked normal. Aside from the police barricades and SWAT team, it appeared fairly safe.
Then, a woman 6 feet away blew her whistle and the crowd started chanting. The cause became more urgent, and the tear gas started making my eyes water, so this was a good time to bolt.
Ephi brought us to a restaurant on the way home with a 6 plate dinner spread. We tried many different foods and walked home with a food coma.
At this point, we also decided to stay in Athens all 6 days instead of going to Santorini. Ferry schedules were erratic, and we wanted to save money and just enjoy all the many things Athens offered. More yummy food ensued.
On day 3, public transportation started running on a limited basis. We finally got to Monastiraki, where we enjoyed our first gyro of the trip. Greek restaurants in the US just can't compare to the quality of food in Greece. The ingredients are so fresh, and the herbs just jump out at you. Did I mention the food was fantastic? :)
It was easy to forget, as we were enjoying our food with hundreds of other people around, that fire bombs were being thrown less than a mile away. You would never know it. People were laughing and relaxing, drinking wine and casually eating. Then, people started coming through the center with white tear gas marks on their faces, and some still wearing masks. It wasn't clear who had been protesting and who had just been observing. Everyone blended together, looking frustrated and sad.
After getting up from the table, we noticed that a nearby ATM machine had been completely ripped out. Glass was fractured and money had clearly been stolen. There was also a garbage strike, too, so trash had been piling up in dumpsters. Some garbage cans had been kicked over and burned, which at least helped kill the pungent stink.
Our curiosity to see the madness in action led us to Syntagma--riot central--just a short walk away. We had heard things were simmering, so we thought it would be a good time to check it out. We inched closer, and everyone around us looked normal. Aside from the police barricades and SWAT team, it appeared fairly safe.
Then, a woman 6 feet away blew her whistle and the crowd started chanting. The cause became more urgent, and the tear gas started making my eyes water, so this was a good time to bolt.
Ephi brought us to a restaurant on the way home with a 6 plate dinner spread. We tried many different foods and walked home with a food coma.
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