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The first part of our trip in Athens was obviously marked by riots, which severely limited our ability to move around the city--public transportation systems were either completely shut down or had flaky schedules, shops were closed, and parts of the city were just too risky.

But, after a few days, we were able to see some of Athens' most famous sites.  

Of course, we went to the Acropolis.  The Acropolis is the highest point in the city (490 ft above sea level)--a flat-topped rock that towers over Athens, and on which the Parthenon rests.  The earliest settlement on the Acropolis dates back to 6th millenium BC and then became a sacred temple to Athena in 6th century BC.  We learned at the nearby Acropolis Museum (a must visit) afterwards many interesting things, but here's 3 of them:

1. The Acropolis has undergone several transformations and devastation (fires, wars, etc).  Incredible, lavish temples would be built for a god (usually Athena) or a king, they would be plundered or destroyed, and then rebuilt or reworked.  It was a cycle over and over.  So many precious things ruined by greed, war, or simply time.

2. Like we'd seen at other historical monuments, key statues on the Acropolis were replicas.  The actual ones are preserved and restored inside the museum.

3. The British are thieves.  Aside from the Parthenon perched on top of the Acropolis, there is also the Erectheion (used to be the Old Temple of Athena).  On it stand six draped female figures (caryatids).  Well, there were six.  But, Lord Elgin stole one of them late one night, and then it was later sold to the British Museum.  The British Museum still won't give the 6th caryatid back to the Greeks, despite their constant requests.  We saw similar acts of "finders, keepers" attitudes in other parts of our travels.

Another word to the wise, the Parthenon is usually under construction.  I know you'll see pictures of the Parthenon with no cranes, but that's probably not what you'll see.  This was my 2nd time at the Acropolis in 7 years, and it's still under construction.

Although the Parthenon is certainly the most famous site, the Acropolis also has several other monuments and artifacts near it.  My favorite was the Theatre of Dionysus.

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The Theatre of Dionysus, erected around 6th century BC, is probably the oldest surviving theatre anywhere.  Dedicated to the God of wine and Patron of drama (Dionysus), festivals were held in this theatre, and dramatists like Sophicles and Euripedes competed with their works.  

The theatre is being restored, since not much from the original theatre is remaining.  It was such a cool feeling, though, to sit on the stone and just picture the dramas unfolding on that open air stage.  In those days, there were only male actors allowed to perform, and some were actually killed for dramatic effect.

There is one more theatre nearby--the Odeon of Herodus Atticus.  It's very well preserved (and was just restored for use during the Athens Olympics), and was built in 161 AD by a very rich man (Herodus Atticus) in memory of his wife.

Herodus Atticus also funded the Panathenaic Stadium renovation in 140 AD, where athletic games were played and the first modern Olympic Games were later held in 1896.  It's one of the oldest stadiums in the world and is built entirely of white marble.  Still in excellent condition, it was incredible to walk around the 50,000 seats and on the center field.  Of course, we did an obligatory "race" on the field.  Chris won, but let's not talk about that.

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Temple of Zeus (remaining columns)

A short walking distance away from the Acropolis stands the Temple of Zeus.  Some columns still remain, and they were HUGE.  It's absolutely humbling to stand next to these 100ft+ columns that ancient Greeks built in ~450BC.  Although it used to house a statue of Zeus, I think these remaining columns alone are incredible.  One column actually tumbled down in a heavy thunderstorm almost 100 years ago...and they left it on the ground.  That column survived thousands of years and wars, but a rainstorm took it down, and there it stays.
We took a little "hop on off" (what we liked to call them) train that went around to many sites on our last day.  That was fun, although schedules were a little weird, and I'd recommend it to those wanting to see the popular historical sites.

Leaving Athens was hard because we really had a GREAT time, fantastic food, and a gracious host.  The food was the best we had anywhere, plus we got home cooking from Ephi! :)  We also had a chance to recharge and just enjoy the city at our own pace.  We didn't get to the Islands this time because of the riots and budget, but we will definitely go back to Athens and see the Islands sometime soon!

View from the top of the Acropolis
View from the top of the Acropolis
 
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After sleeping for several hours--6am-11am--we awoke to a fantastic meal from Ephi.  This would be our first taste of the incredible food served in Greece.

We decided to try and walk to Monastiraki, about 3 miles away, for the evening.  Monastiraki is very close to the Acropolis and Plaka, which basically form the heart of Athens.  There are historical monuments, flea markets, and delicious Greek restaurants.

However, the riots in Athens started a few days before we arrived.  As we walked, Ephi pointed out all the shops that were closed and afraid to stay open during the chaos.  Many places in the neighborhoods we crossed seemed so empty.  Then, we came to the outskirts of Monastiraki, where restaurants lining the street were open and vibrant.  We couldn't help but notice, though, that most people were walking back towards us--not Monastiraki.  Ephi asked a group of young teenage girls what was going on, and they informed her that the riots were spreading.  We learned the following:
  1. Young people are way friendlier to older people in Greece than in the US.  Ephi is 63.  If she were to try and talk to teenagers here, they may answer her, and would then get away as quickly as possible.  These girls not only answered her question, but also stayed to chat with her.  We saw this example on different occasions after this, and we were impressed by the respect and courtesy shown by young people.
  2. A riot was expected any moment in the exact area we were standing.  They were coming to apparently burn down a nearby restaurant.

The rioters did come to our area as we were leaving, but it wasn't as scary of an image as I had conjured up.  About 100 men and women arrived suddenly on their motorcyles.  They offered us a pamphlet on what they were protesting (the government's handling of the financial turmoil towards bankruptcy, including the resulting severe taxation and union restrictions for government workers).  I took the pamphlet, and we headed home.

On our way, we had a spectacular view of the Acropolis (the huge flat-topped rock where the Parthenon is perched), all lit up at night.  And of course, we indulged in a delicious, huge-portioned, home cooked, Greek dinner. :)

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The next day, public transportation in Athens (bus, train, metro, taxis, etc) was still not running because of the riots.  We mainly relaxed and walked around safe, open parts of the city.  Footage on TV showed the riots based in Syntagma Square--outside Greece's Parliament building.  Although initially peaceful, the riots had turned more violent with fire bombs, rocks thrown, and resulting tear gas.  A few protesters died during the riots, along with several hundred wounded:  http://www.usatoday.com/news/world/story/2011-10-20/greece-protest-death/50840588/1

At this point, we also decided to stay in Athens all 6 days instead of going to Santorini.  Ferry schedules were erratic, and we wanted to save money and just enjoy all the many things Athens offered.  More yummy food ensued.


On day 3, public transportation started running on a limited basis.  We finally got to Monastiraki, where we enjoyed our first gyro of the trip.  Greek restaurants in the US just can't compare to the quality of food in Greece.  The ingredients are so fresh, and the herbs just jump out at you.  Did I mention the food was fantastic? :)

It was easy to forget, as we were enjoying our food with hundreds of other people around, that fire bombs were being thrown less than a mile away.  You would never know it.  People were laughing and relaxing, drinking wine and casually eating.  Then, people started coming through the center with white tear gas marks on their faces, and some still wearing masks.  It wasn't clear who had been protesting and who had just been observing.  Everyone blended together, looking frustrated and sad.

After getting up from the table, we noticed that a nearby ATM machine had been completely ripped out.  Glass was fractured and money had clearly been stolen.  There was also a garbage strike, too, so trash had been piling up in dumpsters.  Some garbage cans had been kicked over and burned, which at least helped kill the pungent stink.

Our curiosity to see the madness in action led us to Syntagma--riot central--just a short walk away.  We had heard things were simmering, so we thought it would be a good time to check it out.  We inched closer, and everyone around us looked normal.  Aside from the police barricades and SWAT team, it appeared fairly safe.  

Then, a woman 6 feet away blew her whistle and the crowd started chanting.  The cause became more urgent, and the tear gas started making my eyes water, so this was a good time to bolt.

Ephi brought us to a restaurant on the way home with a 6 plate dinner spread.  We tried many different foods and walked home with a food coma.  

 
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The trip to Greece was probably our biggest challenge during the entire trip.  We faced delays, illness, and total uncertainty...but eventually we made it from Florence to Athens.

First of all, I continued to be sick.  Leaving Florence, we normally would have just walked the 40 minutes with our backpacks to the train station.  Instead we walked 10 minutes to the taxi station.  A taxi finally arrived awhile later.

Every train we had taken thus far had been extremely punctual--within 90 seconds of the planned departure time.  That was really good because sometimes our connections were only 6 minutes, and we never missed a connection.  But, in Italy, we encountered our first delay.  About half of the trains on the monitor were delayed, and we ended up leaving 20 minutes past the scheduled departure.  Our connection happened to be 45 minutes in Bologna, so thankfully this wasn’t an issue at all.

Once in Ancona, we took a bus to the ferry ticket office near the port.  A ferry from Ancona to Patras was free with our Eurail tickets, but you can only book at the port ticket office.  You cannot book anything in advance (we tried travel agencies and contacting the ferry directly).  The Superfast ferry was supposed to leave at 1:30pm, and we rushed to check in and buy tickets one hour in advance.  That's when we found out that Superfast was not operating anymore that day (in direct contrast to the website and their ticket agent's previous email).  The only other ferry departing Ancona for Greece was Minoan Lines.  They were supposed to leave at 4:30pm but were delayed until 9pm.  That meant we had about 9 hours to kill at the ferry ticket station.

I was physically exhausted from our travel that day, and I literally collapsed on the chairs in the ticket station...passed out for an hour while Chris bought the tickets.  Afterwards, I moved to the floor in a corner and slept for another hour.  I was the highlight of everyone walking by.

We left the Ancona port at about 10pm.  My sinus infection migraine, flu hangover, and I enjoyed a 23 hour ferry ride to Greece. 

We arrived in Patras, Greece at 8:40pm the next day, and rushed to find the bus headed to Athens.  According to everything we had read (but, of course, couldn’t purchase in advance) the bus to Athens was just outside the port.  Nope. 

We thankfully ended up following 2 young Persian guys who were also headed to Athens.  They had lived in Athens and knew Greek, so they asked people for directions to the bus station.  After about a mile walk, we found the bus station.  The 9pm bus to Athens was leaving, but sold out, and the next bus wasn't until 2:30am.

So, we spent over 5 hours hanging out at the bus station with Nemo and his friend.  We talked about their time living in Greece and Nemo’s girlfriend in Athens that he was going to meet, and just enjoyed their company.  We were so grateful to meet both of these guys along our journey.  They were selfless and gracious, offering to help in any way—from snacks while waiting in the bus station to a ride once in Athens.

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We made it to Athens at 4:58am, 2 minutes before the taxi drivers had their mandatory 5am strike.  They hungrily asked everyone for business.  But, because they couldn't work the whole day, they were inflating their prices significantly.  Nemo and his girlfriend spoke to a taxi driver to confirm directions and a lower, negotiated price.  They were amazing people.  It would be so easy--and, well, American--to just say "good luck" and leave.  They wanted to make sure we were in good hands and took their handoff seriously.  We were very lucky to meet Nemo, his friend, and girlfriend, who all helped ensure we made it to our destination safely.  It's nice to know there are good people in this world willing to help others out.

A family with a puking baby joined us along the taxi ride, but we finally arrived at the destination address with no problems.

We were staying with my family friend, Ephi, and 63-year old Athens native.  Like most other Athenians, she lives in a condo building.  I walked up to the front door where the last names of residents were listed.  I didn't know Ephi's last name, and this was the final test to our Athens journey.  I selected the one that I thought looked right, crossed my fingers, and hit the buzzer at 5:30am.

Holding my breath, when I heard the answer, I said "Ephi???"  I received a "Katie, you're here?" in response.  That was the most beautiful sound ever.  Chris and I both let out a huge sigh of relief and climbed the 3 floors of stairs to Ephi's place.

She kindly received us and had our bed ready.  I can't even begin to explain how we felt, after 48 hours of traveling, when we finally arrived at Ephi's house in Athens.  We had a bed, a bathroom, and a very hospitable host who wanted to cook for us.  It was AWESOME.

That experience was stressful and really tested our sanity a little bit.  We laugh about it now.  But, there were times—usually when we were just waiting for hours without a feasible end—we questioned if we were ever going to make it to Athens.  I’m pretty lucky, though, to have a supportive man friend, the blessing of goodhearted people, and the fortune of an incredible journey.